Ano Mera sits at the center of the island, 8 kilometers from Chora, on a plateau above the northern coast. It is the second-largest settlement on Mykonos and, for most of the year, one of the most peaceful. The village has a proper plateia — a real working square with a kafeneio, a church, and old men who have sat there their entire lives — a Byzantine monastery that has been active since the 16th century, and a handful of tavernas that serve the local population before they serve tourists. This is the Mykonos that isn’t performed.
The Village Square
The central square (plateia) of Ano Mera is flanked by the Church of the Panagia Tourliani on one side and a row of low buildings — kafeneio, small shops, a pharmacy — on the others. It is a functioning square, not a tourist set piece: locals shop here, children cycle through it, and the kafeneio serves Greek coffee to the same customers it served yesterday.
In summer, a handful of tavernas with outdoor tables operate on the square. The food is straightforward — grilled meats, mezedes, salads — and priced for the local population rather than the visiting one. This makes Ano Mera one of the most affordable places to eat properly on the island.
The Monastery of Panagia Tourliani
Founded in 1542 and substantially rebuilt in the 18th century, the Monastery of Panagia Tourliani is the most significant religious building on Mykonos. It is still active. The courtyard is open to visitors during daylight hours; the katholikon (main church) contains an ornate 18th-century iconostasis carved from Florentine marble and a collection of post-Byzantine icons and ecclesiastical objects.
Dress code applies: shoulders and knees covered. The monastery is a working religious site, not a museum, and should be approached accordingly. The carved baroque tower above the entrance courtyard is visible from the square.
Getting There and Around
The bus from Chora (Fabrika terminal) runs to Ano Mera regularly throughout the day in summer — journey time is approximately 20 minutes and costs €2. By car, the drive takes 15 minutes on a well-maintained road.
Ano Mera is a good base for reaching the north coast beaches. Fokos is 15 minutes from here by car; Panormos is 10 minutes. Agios Sostis is about 12 minutes. If you’re planning a north coast beach day, Ano Mera makes a logical lunch stop in either direction.
Practical Tips
- Visit on a weekday morning for the most authentic sense of the village — weekend afternoons bring more visitors and lose some of the quiet.
- The kafeneio on the square serves the best Greek coffee on the island, by virtue of the fact that it’s made for people who drink it daily.
- The monastery is closed during Greek Orthodox religious holidays and during afternoon hours on some days — check locally before making the trip specifically to visit.
- The drive between Ano Mera and the northern coast passes through agricultural land with old stone walls and windmills. Allow extra time for it.
Why It Stands Out
Ano Mera gives you a version of Mykonos that existed before the island became famous and will continue to exist after the tourist economy changes shape. It is not spectacular in the way that Chora is, or wild in the way that the north coast beaches are. It is simply a real village, doing village things, in the middle of an island that has largely forgotten how to do that.